[原创]凤凰碎片.吹笛到天明

布农铃 · 发表于 2006-11-17 23:58:00

关于凤凰，其实并不陌生，最早的印象当然是来自那本《边城》，翠翠的虎耳草是否还在半夜唱歌，二佬走了以后是否还会回来，是合上书页后常常回想的问题，然后是几年前朋友自驾去凤凰后带回的一本画册，青绿的沱江，水边的白塔，高高矗立的虹桥，恍若梦境放在我的面前，自此，凤凰列入我的旅行计划。 
如今，我来了，是因为通了渝怀铁路而去的凤凰——那个文学大师笔下的优美回忆，那个被传言为中国最美的小城，匆匆两日，不过浮光掠影，沱江水上的薄雾，吊脚楼里的灯光，夕阳下的跳蹬，还有那悠扬婉转不知从何而来的歌声，我不敢说我体验了凤凰，我只能说：我来过了，然后走了，带走一点如清晨露水般淡远渺茫的回忆，也就如此而已。 
 

杏花疏影里，吹笛到天明 
漫无目的地在街上闲逛，工艺品，蜡染，银饰，琳琅满目，说实话，如果不是那三步一家的姜糖铺子，我会忘记我是在凤凰，而会觉得是在其他一个什么风景区的仿制古镇中，中国的古镇，越来越雷同。 
没啥心思逛那些店，只是举起相机，随手抓拍一些照片，聊作纪念，再精致的旅游纪念品，看多了，也就觉得审美疲劳了。那家店，是无意侧头望了一眼，具体是卖什么的倒不记得了，只是一眼看去，正看到挂在店中的一幅中堂，草书，龙飞凤舞，只看清最后一句是“杏花疏影里，吹笛到天明”。 
心下一凛，这样的词句，逛得心浮意躁的头脑顿时清明，如醍醐灌顶。是南宋陈与义的《临江仙》，原词倒还记得“忆昔午桥桥上饮，座中多是豪英。长沟流月去无声。杏花疏影里，吹笛到天明。二十馀年如一梦，此身虽在堪惊。闲登小阁看新晴。古今多少事，渔唱起三更。”是一场关于青春、美丽和梦想的柔软回忆，是指间水流无声的淡淡怅惘，这才是凤凰的气质——美得让人忧愁。回头想看看那是一家什么店，店主是怎样一个人，但那家小店已湮没在熙攘人潮中，没有回去寻觅，这样的红尘闹市，这样空灵的词句，在这样的时候我能遇到，已是缘分。 
是夜，于吊脚楼中，与先生携手同观沱江夜色，白塔和虹桥灯火璀璨地与水中倒影交相辉映，两岸吊脚楼檐下挂着的红灯笼在夜风中摇曳，头顶，一弯残月静静照着这十万大山中孤独而美丽的小城。有箫声绕梁而来，缓慢悠长，是同队的驴友在隔壁试他新买的箫，听不出是什么调子，刹时间只觉百感交集，诸多往事纷至沓来，或喜或忧，或悲或怒，五味杂陈，想对身边人细诉衷肠，却又不知从何说起，说些什么，最终把满怀感慨化作一声长叹：真是好曲。 
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<a target="_blank" href="/User/2006/11/17/20061117155346be432887c0884baeb71a120022767487.jpg"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: 0px; BORDER-TOP: 0px; BORDER-LEFT: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM: 0px" alt="" ="this.src='/oldbbs/err_photo.gif' _fcksavedurl='/oldbbs/err_photo.gif'" src="/User/2006/11/17/20061117155346be432887c0884baeb71a120022767487.jpg" ="this.src='/oldbbs/err_photo.gif'" onload="javascript:if(this.width>550)this.width=550;" width="550" onload="javascript:if(this.width>550)this.width=550;" /></a> 
 
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<a target="_blank" href="/User/2006/11/17/2006111715534752fd18894c4541308fb3a095a8a529e4.jpg"><img style="BORDER-RIGHT: 0px; BORDER-TOP: 0px; BORDER-LEFT: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM: 0px" alt="" ="this.src='/oldbbs/err_photo.gif' _fcksavedurl='/oldbbs/err_photo.gif'" src="/User/2006/11/17/2006111715534752fd18894c4541308fb3a095a8a529e4.jpg" ="this.src='/oldbbs/err_photo.gif'" onload="javascript:if(this.width>550)this.width=550;" onload="javascript:if(this.width>550)this.width=550;" /></a>

阿兰-ALAN · 发表于 2006-11-18 00:21:00

一样的凤凰,一不样的浪漫!

逍遥一身 · 发表于 2006-11-18 00:50:00

期待继续。。。

花心和尚 · 发表于 2006-11-18 22:03:00

漂亮！

巴魂之灵 · 发表于 2006-11-20 06:49:00

PP拍得很有意境.用光考究.我喜欢.顶 <img src="/oldbbs/editorFace/fish.gif" alt="" />

馋嘴牛 · 发表于 2006-11-20 06:52:00

那邊好乾淨嘎舒服
不過我聼人說，鳳凰已經很商業了不知道是真是假

天气不错 · 发表于 2006-11-20 09:47:00

从PP中看到真实全面美丽的凤凰.上周我也去凤凰呆了两天匆匆而行PP很片面很肤浅.楼主的感觉要细腻得多.学习中....
文笔很好.PP是对文字的展示反而成了配角.
凤凰的商业味主要体现在沿街的店铺非常多,这也可以理解,当地百姓通过旅游赚点收入改善下生活是应该的.
不过商业化我觉得只是表面,凤凰还是心目中的凤凰

帕米尔高原 · 发表于 2006-11-20 19:39:00

不错！好贴！有几张片片的视角挺好的，因为照片没有编号，所以难说具体是那几张！不过自然是要顶一哈的

Alaska · 发表于 2006-11-20 19:43:00

确实很漂亮！顶起！

乖不乖 · 发表于 2006-11-20 19:50:00

才女，顶一下！

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