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行走 樟木垭-乌木峪-熊家塔-李家村(永茂-四斗)

已有 1558 次阅读2008-8-21 10:25 |个人分类:旅途风景

穿越 樟木垭-乌木峪-熊家塔-李家村(永茂-四斗)
天气预报有雨,出行之时天空中正飘着小雨,天气丝毫没有动摇我们出行的决心!
行程:
1、张家界市区坐火车到永茂,车程约40分钟,车费4.5元;
2、永茂铁桥那里进去到樟木纳(公路),行程1个多小时;
3、樟木纳到梯岩峡谷(此路中间有一小岔路,中间无居民,遇见岔路沿溪上);
4、梯岩一条独路到乌木峪;
5、乌木峪大柳树边有岔路,一条去元宝,一条去熊家塔,沿溪走为到熊家塔的路;
6、熊家塔沿公路去李家村。
同行人员:铁匠、蓝蓝、皮蛋、忠GG、含笑、庄稼、胖子、二宝、帕米尔
先上几张同行XDJM的个人照片,因为有他们才有一路的开心、快乐!

蓝蓝

爱铁强

二宝

皮蛋

忠GG

庄稼

胖子

含笑


以上照片是我们刚下到山角休息,大家都很疲惫的情况下拍的,从照片中可以看出大家脸上、衣服上的清汗水,虽然身体很疲惫,但每个人脸上都是笑容,因为我们是快乐的行者!
因为大家都写了游记,我再一次搬用了。
游记:二宝
许久没有和朋友一起去徒步了,友情不会为此而变淡,但自己的惰性却慢慢抬头,在心底恣意的生长。
自由人的朋友们仿佛已经不满足于去印证别人的足迹,从铁匠他们几个勇士闯出麻雀谷后,群里便开始做新的尝试,并乐此不疲。某天铁匠忽然在群里说他在地图上看见永茂和李家村那里有两条溪,源头比较接近,说哪天去看一下,尘封已久的心砰然一动,就附和了。
虽然告别了荷尔蒙疯狂分泌的那个年代,但是我们激情依旧,说干就干,天气预报说这个星期有雨,但是我们如约前行。
酷爱懒觉的我竟然忘记了我的闹钟只在工作日提醒,日上三竿,我在床上翻动着臃肿肥胖的身体,心猛然一惊,今天不是和朋友一起去爬山吗?忙打开手机,已经八点,所幸集合时间是八点半,我仍然来的及,匆匆洗漱完毕,忠哥电话就打了进来,问我到哪里了,我忙忙说对不起对不起。匆匆收拾东西,奔出门外,门卫和门口小店里的老板用异样的眼光看着我,估计心里在想:“这家伙肯定会落下什么东西”(事实证明我忘记了装水和卫生纸)。我八点一十七赶到火车站广场,远远看见漂亮的含笑妹妹,原来忠哥,胖子,铁匠,帕米尔都已经到了那里。过了会,蓝蓝,皮蛋都赶来了。忠哥决定去购票。新火车站建立后,首先能感受到的是买票的长队。忠哥进售票厅后又回来了,摇摇头说:“那个队伍就长,估计买到票车都开了”,还是熟人好办事,胖子很快搞定此事,票到手了,很快分发到大家的手里。这时候对讲机里传来庄稼汉的声音,跚跚来迟的他一路接着电话走过来,身子给了我们兄弟,可心却留给了思念他的妹妹,电话里一个劲的聊着装修材料的购置,可以算是日理万机啊。
大家都分到车票,把庄稼汉的罐装气分到大家手里,方便带进候车室,没办法啊,奥运会,安全工作抓的紧啊。
进了候车室,我们乘坐的列车已经检票进站了。在胖子的带领下,我们坐到了没卖票的六号车厢,大家把包放在车厢后就在站台上舒展筋骨。庄稼汉又悄悄的走到一边,静静的倾诉着自己的思念,皮蛋的相机记录下他的心情,大家也都表示理解,毕竟我们也经历过一日不见,如隔三秋的日子。含笑用她的美丽和礼貌打动了列车员,列车员将他仅剩的几个垃圾袋给了我们,在这里我祝愿这个好人大哥一生平安,上天总是眷顾好人的。
列车很快到了永茂,在这里大家看到了神仙哥哥,在他的办公室里,大家肆意的喧哗着,畅快的灌着他的桶装水,神仙哥哥也高兴的笑了。
迟到的人总是没有准时的早餐,我们去了小站后的餐馆,老板的妹妹十分漂亮,我就在设想,如果我在这个小站工作,他一定是我或者同事的小芳。
吃完米粉大家开始上路了,胖子早在几天前就把路线问了个明白,大家朝樟木纳进发,一路上欢歌笑语。路上遇见一老人,家住熊壁岩山下,因为没去过那里,我突发奇想,我们是不是去熊壁岩,但我的提议没有被通过,大家继续前行,路上看见一个碧潭,大家痛痛快快的洗了个澡。洗完澡大家又上路了,我们喜欢这种在路上的感觉。
很快到了樟木纳,看见心仪已久的方石岩,大家心里在暗暗加油,下次目标就是它了。热情的村民为我们详细的诉说着路线,生怕我们半道迷失,感慨村民淳朴的同时,也看到牛的强悍,一头公牛肆无忌惮的欺负着一群母牛,母牛四处逃窜,吓的含笑拉着铁匠哥哥的手就跑,大伙都被眼前的景象吓呆了,此时的我早早的躲到风雨桥中。俗语中说的卵硬人黄浑原来不仅仅是指人啊,牛大哥亦然。
继续往前走着,到了个分岔的小溪边,忠GG畅谈着往日在此工作的情景,当年大包村下队,农村民风淳朴,二九少女皆在天塔中裸浴,往事已矣,不胜感慨。
很快进了梯岩峡谷,这是最考验体力的一段,我很久没运动了,心肺功能不是很好,有点跟不上队伍的感觉,但大家都在互相鼓励着,随着对讲机里庄稼汉的一声高呼,垭口到了,大家振作精神,顺利的登上垭口。垭口是个分水岭,这里坐落着张家界和自治州的九号界碑,国务院三个大字神圣而庄严,我们知道我们已经回到自己的土地。
一路下坡加上回到自己土地的喜悦,让大家情绪高涨,很快到达谷底,四面巨石突兀,景色煞是好看,但是几声老鸦叫大煞风景,心里徒增了几份不祥,自此我的笑脸收了起来。
很快到达了乌木峪,大家提议找个能游泳的地方扎营,这个提议很快得以实施,一个深潭和一个开阔地进入我们眼帘,这里被确认为我们的宿营地。
当地的老百姓保持着应有的警惕,我们在此扎营的信息迅速反应给当地的书记,当地村委会领导迅速来讯问我们是干什么的,我们如实回答,他们关切了几句,注意山洪便走了。
一到营地,我一个人没有融入集体,大家都在忙碌着,铁匠、蓝蓝、皮蛋、忠GG洗起了菜,含笑、庄稼、胖子烧起了饭,帕米尔为大家谋起了口粮,唯独我贪恋溪水的清凉,竟然跑去游泳了,铁匠跑来一顿训斥,让我汗颜。等帕米尔用棍子把我拉上岸,一顿可口的饭菜已经做好,帕米尔继续往上游为大家谋口粮。很快菜好了,大家都忍不住了,但是帕米尔没有回来,我肚子的馋虫已经爬了出来,庄稼早已经找好了最好的位置,等待着。焦急的同时,蓝蓝提出他去寻找帕米尔,很快帕米尔被找回,大家大快朵颐。我被分到两大碗饭,吃得很饱,而后又有美酒乘上,汉汉老弟回帐篷向夫人汇报工作去了,给我让了一个绝佳的位置,皮蛋豪气的说你们不喝我喝,淳香的酒,浓浓的情,庄稼汉最后也来了。
酒后大家欢快的在溪中裸泳,畅快的嘻戏着,大家找来柴禾,架起了篝火,但是那天大家很累,很早就休息了,十点钟我便睡着了。
凌晨两点,暴雨降临,铁匠在帐外查验水情,忠GG放心的看了下水情石,又安心的睡了,我比较担心,就起来了,刚开始有点冷,但雨水淋过后,暖和了许多,时刻注意着溪里的水情,两点半时候水变浑浊,有树叶和树枝漂下来,对朋友的生命不敢赌,加上白天老鸦叫的凄凉,尽管不想扰乱美梦,还是决定夜行,两点半大家开始收帐篷,三点过六分(铁匠表的时间),我刻意强调了是三点过八分,三六组合在很多地方是不合事宜的。大家带着头灯,一步一步在路上走着,黑夜象油气一样刷满了四周,偶尔能看见久违的荧火虫,经过有村落的地方,好多狗,眼睛绿油油的,我尽量让我的头灯照到我手中的棍子,不至于让他们冲过来,大家都互相照顾着,互相等着。
遇见一条岔路,我错误的决定让大家走了回头路,但大家也没有怨言,友情在暴雨中洋溢着,雨是凉的,心是暖的。
五时许,天边现出鱼肚白,大家毫无倦意,五点半,终于抵达李家村,庄稼迅速的联系了四都车队队长,叫他给我们预留车座,很快,车就来了,大家上了车,困倦一下涌了上来,很多人都睡着了。
九点多,车到市区,大家去大傻店里腐败,虽然这次行程很苦,但是都很开心。

中英文对照的是皮蛋写的。
--走得越多,爱得越多

1.
天下着大雨,但所有队员的心情却是另一翻情景。 大家有说有笑地在火车站等待待发.......
It was pouring, but all fellows were in good mood. All were talking, laughing now and then, waiting for the train,









2.
半小时在永茂下了火车 half an hour later, got off the train at YongMao station













3.
老天虽然还挥洒着毛毛雨,但我们已是汗流成河了。 在遇到的第一座桥,我们第一次休息
Though it's drizzling, we were flooding in sweat only after a little stretch of walk. We took our fisrt break at the first bridge we met.


4.
又一座桥,N多小小的上坡后,又一座桥--桥还是一样普通的桥,但桥的风景,桥下的水却吸引我们驻足欣赏了一阵.
Another bridge, and little slopes upon slopes, we met another bridge , though , which was as common as the others, but the scene under it, especiall the water, got caught of our heart for stopping to watch.










5.
仰慕已久的方石岩就这样出其不意地出现在我们眼前。 之前,大伙已看过N次她的芳容,也计划N次要拜访她,只是一直没有成行。 此次的不期之遇,让大家兴奋了一阵子,以至一路上大家都念念不忘。
All guys and girls were very excited when the FangShiYan appeared before us unexpectedly. In fact , FangShiYan was a mountain, famous for its shape, like a big square rock.
Actually we had seen its photos on the internet many times, and had made plans to visit her. But our plans were not performed so far. This unexpected encounter made all of us talk about it all the way



6.
我们遇到一个好心的老人,得知我们的目的地,答应给我们带路。。。。。 但一潭清水引诱我们背信弃义,离开老人,我们跳入温柔的怀抱中,美不可言呀
We met a warm-hearted old man who knew where we were going, promising to be our guide... but the girl of a crystal clear water allured us. We went for the girl instead of continuing to walk with the old man.
Jumping into the girl's gentle and warm breast, We were all intoxicated, and the feeling couldn't be expressed in human's words.

















7.
进入樟木垭, 几座美丽而雄伟的高山耸立在我们的前方,心虽已系她们,但小巧的风雨桥前面,我们忍不住驻足留影
We arrived at ZhangMuYa village, three peaks soared highly into the clouds in beautifual and grand way. Though we were already attracted to them, but we could help stopping to take photos with the little pretty bridge







8.
这座风雨桥把我带回了童年,小时候家门前的小河上也有这样的一座桥,夏天的晚上,许多男女老少在那儿乘凉睡觉,好不惬意。
The bridge called out the memories of my childhood. When I was a little child, there was a same bridge as this on the brook that flew before my village. Every day on summer, men and women, boys and girls enjoyed the cool in the bridge, some even slept there



9.
秀丽的大山下有一个美丽的小山村,只是在这里没有美丽的山姑等着我, 我只好稍作片刻的迷恋之后,继续赶路
Another pretty and pastoral village at the foot of the splendid mountain, though, to which we were attached, We had to move on after a short break because there was no pretty girls welcoming us
















10.  
挺拔的高山,纯朴的木屋,绿绿的稻田,真希望在这里留下来,一辈子,当然得有人愿意为我在这里生儿育女
Tall moutains, rustic wooden house, and green rice-plants, I really wanted to stay here for a life, of couse, if there was a girl who loved me had the same idea.













11.
这就是那梦想中的拱桥,我能够在闲暇时,与心爱的姑娘执手在桥上对眼相视,所有青山绿水都化进心中对彼此的爱意
This was the very arch-bridge that I often dreamed, on which I could stood with my dear girl, eying with each other so peaceful in leisure time, and all the love for the moutains and clear water melting into the love for each other.







12.
高山,绿树,玉米,木屋。。。。。。。啊,老天! 我亲爱的姑娘,你能感受到我心中所想么?
Tall moutain, green trees, corn , wooden house...........OMG ! Did you feel the same thing, my girl 。













13.
忠GG。 据说当忠GG很年轻时,一次经过这儿,看见一个二八如花少女正在沐浴,正当他羞怯难当想找一个地洞想钻进去时,那位少女对他妩媚一笑,并邀他共同沐浴, 但忠GG却吓得不溜烟地跑了, N年后,为少年不更事后悔不已.
It's said that he passed here when he was pretty young, and a girl who was bathing asked him to take bath together

















14.
开始进山了。 进山的路,是很辛苦,但为了到达山上所能见到的美景,一点汗水是值得的,何况还有山那边殷切的期待!
Now, we were walking into the maintain. The path was rough, thus the walking was hard. But all efforts we paid were worthy - the beautiful scenes were waiting for us deep in the moutain, and there were more hope over the other side of it.













15.
过山中简易木桥, 公路的四通八达,也不知这木桥是何年何月就已存在了。 我们小心翼翼的,一次只通过一人,唯恐掉下去与石头亲吻。
ZhuangJia was passing the simplest wooden bridge. Now the concrete road was everywhere, this bridge was not unknown for its birthday. We walked across it as carefully as we could, one people one time, lest falling down to kiss the hard boulders.







16.
往上往上,只见屁股,不见山峰
up and up, All came into sight was only thigh, no peaks showed up.















17.
第二次山中休息。 虽是雨天,但毕竟是夏季,挥出去的汗需及时喝水补充。
Taking the second break ever since walking into the moutain. Although it's a rainy day, after all it's in summer. We needed to drink water to replenish the water that were out of our body in the way of sweating



18.
路很滑,一直心不在焉的庄家担心摔倒,很早就开开始使用登山杖了.
This steep path was very slippery, the absent-minded ZhuangJia feared to fall, so he walked with the help of his crutch at the beginning of going up the mountain.



19.
真正的驴,眼中风景无处不在,但经过一阵汗水过后的,风景则有一种不同的体味
In the true traveller's eyes, good scenes were everywhere. But the scenes we saw after a great of efforts were a kind of different things to feel.







20.
到了山的垭口,稍作休息,有几位伙计砍了拐杖,以防下山滑倒。
We finally got to the top of the mountain, and took a break for a while. Some guys cut sticks for support when we descended the mountain, in order not to fall down from the slippery path.







21.
下山了,下山风景同样美丽。
We were now descending, the scenes on the downward course were as attractive as the ascending way

















22.
快到山脚, 风景美得令人让人遐思绵绵,如果有水的话,真想就在这儿扎营。 带了相机的咔咔不停的拍下自己喜欢的PP。 其他人也是叽叽不断地指着说,那是什么山,这是什么山。
We were approaching the foot of the moutain. The view was so fascinating that we were immerse in all kinds of thought while appriecating the scenes. We really wanted to camp there if there was water. Those who brought cameras lost no time to take snapshot of whatever they liked. Other fellows were busying pointing and speaking:"This was ... , that was .."






23.
女人爱花,男人爱象花一样的女人, 看来男女都色,上帝配得很妙啊 (一路上有很多漂亮的花花草草)
Woman loves beautiful flowers, man loves the girls who were as beautiful as flowers. It seems that both man and woman were lascivious ? God did a great work of man and woman.



































24.
终于到了乌木峪, 问问村民得知离我们打算扎营的熊家塔已是不远,心情一阵轻松,只是走在干涸的河床上,有一些失落, 我们一直还没有真正的溯溪。
We got to the Wumuyu village at last. Having asked the villagers, we knew it's not too far away from the place where we were going to camp. We felt a little relieved. But we felt not just we had thought while walking the dried brook bed. Still we didn't really walk in a true creek.









25.
扎营地前最后一次休息, 以便达到营地后不太劳累,可以完成晚餐。
WE were taking the last break before we got to the camp, so that we couldnot be too tired to cook our supper



26.
当我们休息时,含笑与铁匠捉螃蟹。 这一次的螃蟹可能没有上一次运气了 --上次在麻雀谷时,因为食物太多,我们让它们返回了大自然, 这次我们得当一次屠夫了! 愿上帝保佑我们!
While we were having a rest, Hanxiao and TieJiang were catching crabs. This time the crabs maybe not as lucky as the last time when we were at MaQue valley. At that time, we delivered the crabs we caught and let them return the nature, but this time we would be butchers of those crabs.
God blessed us.












27.
我们在一个深潭边扎了营,这里离熊家塔还有一小段路。 但男人们都想裸泳, 因为水深,所以就不用担心被人看见隐私的地方。当然某些特别的人儿除外。
We camped nearby a deep spool. The place was still a little stretch of way from the XiongJiata village. But since all men wanted to swim naked, so the deep water could hid all the private part of body that guys didn't wanted to be seen, of couse , except by some special people.





28.
洗菜,做饭, 准备餐具, 食欲一点点被激发起来, 还没等到菜熟,饱受肉体与感情饥饿双重夹击的庄家就吃了一碗饭.
washing foods, cooking supper, preparing the dishes, our appetite was stirring little by little. Even the cooking was not finished, zhuangjie who was suffering from both the hunger of body and the eager of love couldn't wait any longer, he had had a bowl of rice without any tasty.






29.
饭菜如此可口,当得知所有的一切都是铁匠准备的,都赞同地说:今后出行,他准备食物为最佳选。大家在为他歌功颂德一翻后,开怀大吃,
我一直到裤带子松了几次才停止吃饭。 尔后,每人一点小酒,在兴奋中结束了晚餐,担心自烧,大家迫不急待想去下潭游泳,只是含笑占着位置不让,我们只得苦撑着 。。。。。。。。
The supper was so good, we all approved that TieJian was the best guy to prepare the foods next time after we got to know that the foods were prepared by him. After giving him a great deal of honor, we began to feast. I didn't stop eating until I unfastened my belt for three times. Later, we drank a little ErGuoTou, a famous liquid. We were so excited that we worried we could be burning on some key part of our body, you know what I meant when I said 'key part of body'.
We couldn't help wanting to swim in the spool , but the only girl, HanXian occupied it. We couldn't do nothing but waiting ....













30.
终于,轮到我们出场了,当然是裸泳。  
二宝看来水性最好了, 大家都扔下石头,然后他把它从潭里摸出来,赢得一阵阵掌声。最后帕米尔丢下一枚用白纸包着的硬币,但二宝即使戴着防水头灯最后也没有捞上来,这样结束了他水性好的卖弄。
集体裸泳开始,只是水太冷, 我们没有尽兴,但在冰冷中颤栗着,不足半小时,大家纷纷上了岸。
Finally , it's our turn to swim, naked.  
It proved that ErBoa was the best swimmer. EVerybody threw little white stone into the spool ,then he could always got it out of the water, which win him a lot of applause . At last, Pamier cast a silver coin wrapped in a sheet of white paper. This time, Erbao failed to get it ,even though he wore the water-proof head-light.
Afterwards, we began to swim naked. We didn't enjoy enought of the nake swim because of the cold water that made us shiver. Just half an hour, we went ashore.





31.
我在在发抖,刚才有螃蟹可以救水冷于火热之中,至于火热之后,又如何办,那是后事。
油炸,直到炸得颜色黄到恰到好处。 入口,脆,香,猛,一分钟,就被一扫而光,留下一只最大的给帕米尔。如不是考虑到他捉到的螃蟹最多,我们可以狠心得全部干光。多贪的一群男人,看清楚他们,下次遇到小心为好。
We were trembling from the coldness of water. Only the crabs could save us from the shivering. We didn't care what woudl happen if the crabs could enourage something up.
Fried the crabs until its color became perfect yellow. Put the fried crabs into mouth, tasting... Wow, crisp,sweet,stiring..... The crabs were already in our stomach in a minute, leaving the biggest one for Pamier who caught the most of crabs. We could have eaten all of the crabs if we didn't take the fact into account that he paid a lot of effors in catching the crabs.
How greedy this group of men were. Get a close look of them, better to stay away from them next time when you met them.



32.
我们这次旅行,路程没有以前任何一次长,但却觉得比以前都要疲倦。 我们围着篝火扯谈不到两小时,一个个纷纷钻进帐篷,很快就进入了梦乡。
We didn't know why we walked not as long as every time before, but this time we felt more exhausted than ever. We talked for less than two hours around the campfile, then we all got into tents and fell asleep.



33.
我不记得昨晚做了什么梦,但今早二点钟的大雨却让我头脑异常清晰:我们处于危险之中。
为了裸泳,我们扎营在河床无水的地方,但老天爷却开了一点玩笑,一直没有动静的天空,却霹雳啪啦的下起大雨来。
但大约20分钟后,大雨成了小雨。 尽管我们感觉到河水不会涨得太大,尽管我们一万愿意再入梦想,但我们还是清楚什么最重要。
安全第一,永远都是出行的第一原则。 珍爱生命,不仅是为了自己,也是了为了爱人,为了孩子,为了朋友,为了父母。。。
我们已习惯了累--累一点算不了什么,只要安全就好。我们在今早凌晨三点半,匆匆打好包,在黑夜中上了路。
I?didn't remember what I dreamt last night, but the pattering heavy rain clarified my mind: we were in danger.
In order to swim naked, we camped in the dry part of a brook. But The God made a joke with us. The peaceful sky broke by the rain.
Twenty minutes later, the heavy rain grew a little one. We felt the water would rise high enough to get into our tents. Although what we did want that time was to get into dream again, but we always knew what was the most important for us to do.
Safety was the top principle of camping-out. Valuing our lives, was not only for ourselves, but also for our lovers ,children, friends, our parent.....
We got used to long walk. Being tired was nothing for us as long as the safety was ok. So we made our mind to pull out at 3:30 this morning after packing hastily our things.



34.
黑夜掩盖了所有的东西,包括道路。 我们能做的就是沿着公路走,我们相信,公路肯定会把我们引向等车的地方。
跟着大路这条原则,也不是绝对正确, 在一个岔口时,两条路都是公路,我们恰好走了错的那一条。 打那这后,我们就一直没有再错过了,一直顺利到达坐车的地方
The darkness covered everything, including the path. So what we could do was to follow the road, we belived , which must be leading us to the village where we were supposed to wait for us and go home.
But the rule of following the road was not absolute right, we took the wrong way when we met the first fork in our way. Afterwards, we kept the right way till we got to the very place where we waited for bus.







35.
在回家的路上, 我们有幸看到云雾缭绕的山峰,如此迷人,我们好几次都想下车拍照,只是我们太疲劳了
所以我们在车上照了一些PP。(如果不是因为疲惫,我不会后悔自己当时没有下车去拍那漂亮的云山雾绕的仙境)
IN the way home, we got the chance of catching the sight of foggy-scenes of mountains that were trully so charming that we almost got off the bus to take the better of photos of them.
But we were too tired, so we took some photos on the bus.











36.
走得越多,对家乡无意识的爱越来越浓,我们的家乡是最美丽的!
The more we walked, the more we love our hometown. Our hometown is one of the most beautiful places in the world.











--End--




路过

雷人

握手

鲜花

鸡蛋

发表评论 评论 (2 个评论)

回复 四维 2008-8-29 14:09
躇过,味到花香.

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